In Search of the Perfect Pancake
Reportedly Kenny Shopsin is the inspiration for the Soup Nazi character portrayed in a Seinfeld episode. He is renowned for his freshly made soups and the strict rules that govern dining his restaurant. Shopsin also has a reputation for making great pancakes.
To me, pancakes are the ultimate comfort food when cooked properly. Unfortunately I’ve eaten many pancakes that are too cakey, chewy, puffy or thin. So I was eager to read Shopsin’s book, “Eat Me, The Food and Philosophy of Kenny Shopsin“, to learn his pancake secrets.
He gives a great description of what the the perfect pancake should be:
light, with a nice brown, almost fried exterior, and so airy that if you really looked close at them, you would find that they’re not really there. They’re really just air bound with a pancake.
Shopsin believes a well-oiled and properly heated griddle is the most important element in making pancakes. The lack of such a griddle in most homes is why homemade pancakes often fall short of the mark. The second most important factor is handling the batter which is another reason why pancakes made by professional line cooks taste better than homemade.
What we actually eat, the batter, is the least important element. According to Shopsin if you have a proper griddle and cooking technique, you could use a boxed mix or frozen batter and your pancakes will taste as good as his. His batter recipe? It’s Aunt Jemima’s. Many a customer must have been shocked to learn the pancakes they loved started as a block of frozen mass produced batter.
In true Pancake Nazi form, to those that question his philosophy, he questions the worthiness of pancakes:
They are flour and milk drowned in butter and some form of sugar. As far as food value, you might as well take Crisco, whip it up with powdered sugar, and spread it on your face.
If you don’t like it, No Pancakes for You!
